Mapping China: Fashion - Chinese Taste

Is fashion popular in the west automatically also popular in the east? No, says Elsbeth van Paridon, who writes about the topic in Chinese media. She emphasizes the importance of giving a Chinese ‘twist’ to products which are put on the Chinese market. She also emphasizes the advantages to have a Chinese management team, and counters the negative image they often have in the west.

Elsbeth van Paridon: ‘Give clothes a Chinese twist’

Chinese are fond of outlets. The largest one in Europe, Designer Outlet Roermond, is flooded with tourists who would also like to see this initiative in their own country. A golden opportunity, according to Elsbeth van Paridon, who knows the Chinese fashion industry from the inside.

"If all those Chinese tourists visit outlets abroad, it is clear that they also would be interested to have this phenomenon in their own country", she says. "The principle is very attractive: popular fashion, available at a lower price. It’s also the collection of many brands together that attracts people. "

China is, if we are talking about fashion, a 'sleeping giant' who slowly awakens. Van Paridon (who studied sinology, but quickly got involved into the Chinese fashion world and now writes about fashion for the China International Publishing Group, one of the largest online news media in the country), says:

"The fashion world is rapidly developing here. So much is happening in this country. People are more and more interested in foreign brands. Most of them in general know the real big brands. Like Viktor & Rolf for example, or Stella McCartney. But also the little bit less known brands slowly make more and more name, because the interest of Chinese people nowadays goes beyond the usual high-end brands."

Chinese are increasingly looking for their own taste. The styles are very different from each other. "People have a unique view on style, there is something interesting for everyone. In the streets you can see people walking in Chanel fashion, but for example also in clothing which belongs to gothics and punks. And even though they – fortunately – disappear more and more on the streets, you still find the famous Minnie Mouse ears occasionally too."

The rise of the fashion world is a consequence of the social and economic development, she knows. "Chinese earn more than before, and also read much more, thanks to Internet. Their interest in fashion is increasing, and yes, they keep a close eye on the West, though the country itself also has designers who are doing great, like Alexander Wang, Jason Wu and Masha Ma."

All of this give opportunities for Dutch businesses, she thinks. Still, it is important where you will be in China. An inland city or a big metropolis makes a big difference, but even the markets in the main cities are different from each other, explains the Antwerp-born Dutch.

"The Chinese fashion scene is mainly in Shanghai and Hong Kong, but in my eyes they are all westernized already. Beijing, however, is a rough diamond. And you should always remember: the Chinese market is so big, it can never be satisfied."

It is also crucial to realize that it does not work to market products in the same way as in the West. And that has not merely to do with the sizes which are - especially for women - on average much smaller than western.

"It is very smart to give a Chinese twist to clothing. You can do that in many ways. C&A, for example, has a team of Chinese designers. They know what Chinese shoppers like and how they can be attracted. It can be a matter of slight details. An embroidery on a blouse, for example, slightly different than in the West. "

A Chinese management team is also recommended, she says. ,,Many Western companies are afraid that they will lose control, but this is a bit of an outdated idea. Many Chinese managers are well developed, speak fluently English and really feel dedicated to their employer. Often, they also studied abroad."

Chinese designers, like those from C&A, also do not have such a bad reputation anymore. "They are also invited to attend shows of prêt-a-porter collections in Europe to gain inspiration, meaning the fear that they copy everything, is not so big. Although I have to admit that this danger is here, of course, bigger than in most other countries. "

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